As might be expected from the former child star, justin bieber clothes has had many a fashion transformation over the years. He’s done quiffed hair along with a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe as well as a suit. But although some of his tries to toughen up are already met with derision, the newest element of the Biebvolution is in fact bang around the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. There were oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts together with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been plenty of layering – and a lot of raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment on the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood which is sweeping through menswear – and may be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is within. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge by using a tracksuit top as well as a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You could dub it a hot mess males, but the one thing you might never refer to it as is hipster – manicured beards must be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore for the teen awards, is integral towards the rise in interest in denim and also jeans that happen to be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the kind of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You purchased that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, this has legs. Elsewhere around the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that had been roughly shut down in the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing taking place; up close, the holes in these knits are layered over a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – will there be in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is an excellent reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the more in-demand photographers in fashion, these pictures have a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you may even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is This Man?, even though the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff have also been around one of the most talked-about moments in the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which was locked in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes which were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just presented of bed. A lot of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as in the parcel delivery service); the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a activate the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots along with a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is just set to continue: following the show, one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is yet another from the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has become supported by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel as if a nerdy carry out Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
In reality, if all else fails, the important thing to this look can be a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, in which several tracktops are featured within the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all somewhat Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – and the dexqpkyy16 is becoming the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the contrary of the justin bieber t shirt which has been the headline news in menswear over the past few years. And then finally, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t seem like you’ve made an attempt but suggests that you know what’s taking place. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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